Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Sometimes I Take a Great Notion

Quoth the Raven, Nevermore...
-E.A. Poe

Actually, the raven doth quoth every morning right outside my tent at about 5:30am. The raven also doth eat my tortillas when I am not looking. Thankfully now that we are down in bear and mountain lion country, campgrounds all have bear lockers to keep out the thumbless hordes.

Internet and phone signals have been hard to come by of late. The missive is being written from Arcata, CA, hippie capital of CA where the squad is getting in touch with its inner earth mother goddess. Two days ago we steamed out of Oregon and crossed into California. We have camped every night for the past week at state parks along the coast. They all have sites for hiker/bikers available for $4. We are no longer the freaks that we were back east as the road is littered with touring cyclists and their unsteady loads. At this library alone there are three other cyclists using the computers right now. Conversations among the cyclists usually contain such stimulating morsels are "what did you think of that hill, it was pretty bad, huh?"

The weather is cold and foggy. I am happy to report that with the usage of my knee warmers these past days, I have now used each item that I brought, always a victory for any camping trip. I never knew my knees were so cold until I deployed my knee warmers. Each night we camp in the fog and the mist and wake to find everything soaked. Last night was a low ebb for the squad, prompting the first ever 10 mile (1 hour round trip) beer run into Trinidad to lift our soggy spirits.

The terrain has turned hilly again but we now have an elevation map to chart the misery. Coming south out of Coos Bay, OR we turned on Seven Devils Rd. Unfortunately the Seven Devils referred to were seven dastardly hills, steep grades all. To keep my mind of the pain, I began to say aloud, in my best Castillian lisp, my thoughts on the keys to Spanish victory in the Euro final (this being a few days ago before the game). (For the record: 1) get Torres on track 2) contain Lahm on the attack and exploit him on the other end of the pitch 3) defend free kicks and corners).

Between Coos Bay and Brookings the squad suffered its first broken spoke at Humbug Mountain. After a nervous night not knowing what to do, dawn saw the expedition blacksmith smelting the broken spoke in the camping stove to give it enough of a hook to attach to the wheel. 50 wobbly miles later (for Cody) we reached a bike shop in Brookings. We spent a day off in Brookings watching the game at the Pine Cone Tavern where the Spanish achieved all three of my keys to victory. After the game we discovered to our dismay that Taco Bell wont serve a bike on the drive through. The expedition's legal counsel is looking into a discrimination suit.

From Brookings we headed south to Crescent City and then through the Redwoods. Last two days have been spent gawking at tall trees, moss and fog. We have both gotten good at unzipping jackets and shirts on the way up the hill, and then furiously re-zipping for the descent (which we call nipple hardeners). After Eureka we head inland a bit . Tomorrow brings the dread Leggett Mountain (over 2000 feet climb in elevation) before we turn onto Highway 1 and head back to the coast.

Current Elk Sightings: 0

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Photos

Willamette Valley - Rye Grass Capital of the World

Lighthouse Janine
Sea Lions
Sven Goran
Svengali Spandex




Let Me Be Your Salty Dog

Oregon continues to earn its title as best state of the trip so far.



Headed out of Corvallis and over the mountains to Newport. Our new bike specific map tells you where there are major grades and hills which helps the squad in its daily mental preparation. The climb out of Corvallis would have killed lesser men (i.e. us a few weeks ago), yet we managed to get over the hills. The mountains literally tumble into the sea at Newport. We spent the night at the Rogue Brewery Public House and then South Beach State Park. At the Rogue Brewery you get a free pint on Tuesday if you wear a Hawaiian shirt. We tried to convince the bartender that we qualify if we both wore our bright orange reflective vests, but to no avail. Later we harangued the gate guard at the state park to let us camp for free. A few minutes of half-hearted banter and $4 a person later we were allowed to camp. Two devastating blows to my negotiating skills in one evening was hard to swallow. Whats more a raccoon managed to get into our bagels, trailmix, energy drink and cheese during the night.



The next day we rode through the 'post-card' area of the coast. Steep cliffs, sea lions, lighthouses and hidden beaches dotted the way from Newport down to Florence. We camped at the base of the Oregon Sand Dunes and had our first real interaction with other touring cyclists. There are also a number of people hiking down the length of the coast on foot. I find that particularly crazy, yet many people along the way have told me that I am crazy for biking down the coast, so to each their own.



Down to Coos Bay (home of Steve Prefontaine) tonight. In San Francisco around July 4.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Oregon Trail

Bike lanes, free steak dinners, free bicycle repairs, free salmon dinners, microbrews, sunsets over the pacific, snow capped peaks, bike lanes, 70 degree weather, cool nights, flat valleys, Williamette River, pheasants, glow in the dark frisbee, boysen berries, strawberries, roadside fruit stands, bike specific maps and bike lines.

So far Oregon has welcomed us with open arms and and gently caressed us to sleep each night with full bellies, safe sleeping spots and promises of more of the same tomorrow. We are currently in Corvallis, headed west over the coastal range to Newport today. When in Salem, OR visit Santiam Bicycle Shop.

Internet will be an unknown commodity on the coast. Pictures and further details forthcoming.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Go West Young Man

All America lies at the end of the wilderness road. Our forefathers had civilization inside them, the wild outside. We live in the civilization they created, but within us the wilderness still lingers. What they dreamed, we live, and what they lived, we dream.
-T.K. Whipple

We leave at first light to explore the Oregon coast, probably by way of Corvallis. Today saw the squad learn a lot about adjusting the tension of brakes and other matters of bike mechanics. We also experienced our first major fall when my front tire fell into the groove of the street car tracks in downtown Portland.

Like sailors in port, Portland has been decidedly off budget. Trips to bike stores, REI, Euro soccer have all contributed.

Saturday, June 21, 2008

A brief interlude

Said that'll be cash on the barrelhead son
This old gray dog gets paid to run
When the engine starts, lawd, the wheels won't roll
Give me cash on the barrelhead I'll take you down the road
-Charlie Louvin

We have spent the past two days on a greyhound bus from St. Louis to Portland, OR. After a day in Portland tuning up the bikes, resting and restocking we will be back on the road tomorrow cycling south down the coast. Regular posts will resume as soon as we have recovered from the spirit crushing 48 hours on the bus.

Monday, June 16, 2008