Photos

Willamette Valley - Rye Grass Capital of the World

Lighthouse Janine
Sea Lions
Sven Goran
Svengali Spandex

Let Me Be Your Salty Dog

Oregon continues to earn its title as best state of the trip so far.



Headed out of Corvallis and over the mountains to Newport. Our new bike specific map tells you where there are major grades and hills which helps the squad in its daily mental preparation. The climb out of Corvallis would have killed lesser men (i.e. us a few weeks ago), yet we managed to get over the hills. The mountains literally tumble into the sea at Newport. We spent the night at the Rogue Brewery Public House and then South Beach State Park. At the Rogue Brewery you get a free pint on Tuesday if you wear a Hawaiian shirt. We tried to convince the bartender that we qualify if we both wore our bright orange reflective vests, but to no avail. Later we harangued the gate guard at the state park to let us camp for free. A few minutes of half-hearted banter and $4 a person later we were allowed to camp. Two devastating blows to my negotiating skills in one evening was hard to swallow. Whats more a raccoon managed to get into our bagels, trailmix, energy drink and cheese during the night.



The next day we rode through the 'post-card' area of the coast. Steep cliffs, sea lions, lighthouses and hidden beaches dotted the way from Newport down to Florence. We camped at the base of the Oregon Sand Dunes and had our first real interaction with other touring cyclists. There are also a number of people hiking down the length of the coast on foot. I find that particularly crazy, yet many people along the way have told me that I am crazy for biking down the coast, so to each their own.



Down to Coos Bay (home of Steve Prefontaine) tonight. In San Francisco around July 4.

Oregon Trail

Bike lanes, free steak dinners, free bicycle repairs, free salmon dinners, microbrews, sunsets over the pacific, snow capped peaks, bike lanes, 70 degree weather, cool nights, flat valleys, Williamette River, pheasants, glow in the dark frisbee, boysen berries, strawberries, roadside fruit stands, bike specific maps and bike lines.

So far Oregon has welcomed us with open arms and and gently caressed us to sleep each night with full bellies, safe sleeping spots and promises of more of the same tomorrow. We are currently in Corvallis, headed west over the coastal range to Newport today. When in Salem, OR visit Santiam Bicycle Shop.

Internet will be an unknown commodity on the coast. Pictures and further details forthcoming.

Go West Young Man

All America lies at the end of the wilderness road. Our forefathers had civilization inside them, the wild outside. We live in the civilization they created, but within us the wilderness still lingers. What they dreamed, we live, and what they lived, we dream.
-T.K. Whipple

We leave at first light to explore the Oregon coast, probably by way of Corvallis. Today saw the squad learn a lot about adjusting the tension of brakes and other matters of bike mechanics. We also experienced our first major fall when my front tire fell into the groove of the street car tracks in downtown Portland.

Like sailors in port, Portland has been decidedly off budget. Trips to bike stores, REI, Euro soccer have all contributed.

A brief interlude

Said that'll be cash on the barrelhead son
This old gray dog gets paid to run
When the engine starts, lawd, the wheels won't roll
Give me cash on the barrelhead I'll take you down the road
-Charlie Louvin

We have spent the past two days on a greyhound bus from St. Louis to Portland, OR. After a day in Portland tuning up the bikes, resting and restocking we will be back on the road tomorrow cycling south down the coast. Regular posts will resume as soon as we have recovered from the spirit crushing 48 hours on the bus.

photos

The Mighty Mississippi

To be read in the style of Charles Kuralt.

The advance squad had its first glimpse of the Mississippi River from a bicycle at 11:50 am CDT, June 6, 2008 west of Murphysboro, IL on Illinois Rt. 3. We went 811.4 miles; 81 hours, 3 minutes, 7 seconds of riding time; 15 days, 4 hours and 20 minutes total time.

Steaming hard out of Carbondale this morning we were both excited to reach her muddy banks and healing waters. But lo, she would not give up the ghost that easily as we had one last crucible of punishing hills to tease out every ache and pain we have been harboring before she revealed her big, broad bosom to us. Finally speeding down out of the high bluffs we saw her: flat, wide and muddy, just as we had imagined. With Missouri to our west, we raced barges and freight trains north headed for St. Louis.

Le Renard was happy to be entering the Louisiana Purchase and the land of his french ancestors. As we pass towns like Ste. Genevieve and I switch him into a high gear to climb yet another bluff, he now whispers softly 'Mondieu Monsieur!'

And so as Phase One of the journey comes to a close it is a time of celebration and reflection. Our riverboat legs have pushed and pedaled us out of the crowded east. Tonight we camp on the river bank at Prairie de Rocher with but a short victory ride into St. Louis ahead, like the final stage of Le Tour, the outcome never in doubt. We have two fine Cuban puros smuggled in by our commissary man, and maybe a pull or two of good corn whiskey to accompany our cold beef stew.

And so it is that two men with little training or preparation, be they so determined, can reach the mighty Mississippi using nothing but a bicycle.

Manu Forti and God Bless America.