Willamette Valley - Rye Grass Capital of the World
Lighthouse Janine
Sea Lions
Sven Goran
Svengali Spandex
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Photos
Willamette Valley - Rye Grass Capital of the World Lighthouse Janine Sea Lions Sven Goran Svengali Spandex
Let Me Be Your Salty Dog
Oregon continues to earn its title as best state of the trip so far.
Headed out of Corvallis and over the mountains to Newport. Our new bike specific map tells you where there are major grades and hills which helps the squad in its daily mental preparation. The climb out of Corvallis would have killed lesser men (i.e. us a few weeks ago), yet we managed to get over the hills. The mountains literally tumble into the sea at Newport. We spent the night at the Rogue Brewery Public House and then South Beach State Park. At the Rogue Brewery you get a free pint on Tuesday if you wear a Hawaiian shirt. We tried to convince the bartender that we qualify if we both wore our bright orange reflective vests, but to no avail. Later we harangued the gate guard at the state park to let us camp for free. A few minutes of half-hearted banter and $4 a person later we were allowed to camp. Two devastating blows to my negotiating skills in one evening was hard to swallow. Whats more a raccoon managed to get into our bagels, trailmix, energy drink and cheese during the night.
The next day we rode through the 'post-card' area of the coast. Steep cliffs, sea lions, lighthouses and hidden beaches dotted the way from Newport down to Florence. We camped at the base of the Oregon Sand Dunes and had our first real interaction with other touring cyclists. There are also a number of people hiking down the length of the coast on foot. I find that particularly crazy, yet many people along the way have told me that I am crazy for biking down the coast, so to each their own.
Down to Coos Bay (home of Steve Prefontaine) tonight. In San Francisco around July 4.
Headed out of Corvallis and over the mountains to Newport. Our new bike specific map tells you where there are major grades and hills which helps the squad in its daily mental preparation. The climb out of Corvallis would have killed lesser men (i.e. us a few weeks ago), yet we managed to get over the hills. The mountains literally tumble into the sea at Newport. We spent the night at the Rogue Brewery Public House and then South Beach State Park. At the Rogue Brewery you get a free pint on Tuesday if you wear a Hawaiian shirt. We tried to convince the bartender that we qualify if we both wore our bright orange reflective vests, but to no avail. Later we harangued the gate guard at the state park to let us camp for free. A few minutes of half-hearted banter and $4 a person later we were allowed to camp. Two devastating blows to my negotiating skills in one evening was hard to swallow. Whats more a raccoon managed to get into our bagels, trailmix, energy drink and cheese during the night.
The next day we rode through the 'post-card' area of the coast. Steep cliffs, sea lions, lighthouses and hidden beaches dotted the way from Newport down to Florence. We camped at the base of the Oregon Sand Dunes and had our first real interaction with other touring cyclists. There are also a number of people hiking down the length of the coast on foot. I find that particularly crazy, yet many people along the way have told me that I am crazy for biking down the coast, so to each their own.
Down to Coos Bay (home of Steve Prefontaine) tonight. In San Francisco around July 4.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Oregon Trail
Bike lanes, free steak dinners, free bicycle repairs, free salmon dinners, microbrews, sunsets over the pacific, snow capped peaks, bike lanes, 70 degree weather, cool nights, flat valleys, Williamette River, pheasants, glow in the dark frisbee, boysen berries, strawberries, roadside fruit stands, bike specific maps and bike lines.
So far Oregon has welcomed us with open arms and and gently caressed us to sleep each night with full bellies, safe sleeping spots and promises of more of the same tomorrow. We are currently in Corvallis, headed west over the coastal range to Newport today. When in Salem, OR visit Santiam Bicycle Shop.
Internet will be an unknown commodity on the coast. Pictures and further details forthcoming.
So far Oregon has welcomed us with open arms and and gently caressed us to sleep each night with full bellies, safe sleeping spots and promises of more of the same tomorrow. We are currently in Corvallis, headed west over the coastal range to Newport today. When in Salem, OR visit Santiam Bicycle Shop.
Internet will be an unknown commodity on the coast. Pictures and further details forthcoming.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Go West Young Man
All America lies at the end of the wilderness road. Our forefathers had civilization inside them, the wild outside. We live in the civilization they created, but within us the wilderness still lingers. What they dreamed, we live, and what they lived, we dream.
-T.K. Whipple
-T.K. Whipple
We leave at first light to explore the Oregon coast, probably by way of Corvallis. Today saw the squad learn a lot about adjusting the tension of brakes and other matters of bike mechanics. We also experienced our first major fall when my front tire fell into the groove of the street car tracks in downtown Portland.
Like sailors in port, Portland has been decidedly off budget. Trips to bike stores, REI, Euro soccer have all contributed.
Like sailors in port, Portland has been decidedly off budget. Trips to bike stores, REI, Euro soccer have all contributed.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
A brief interlude
Said that'll be cash on the barrelhead son
This old gray dog gets paid to run
When the engine starts, lawd, the wheels won't roll
Give me cash on the barrelhead I'll take you down the road
-Charlie Louvin
This old gray dog gets paid to run
When the engine starts, lawd, the wheels won't roll
Give me cash on the barrelhead I'll take you down the road
-Charlie Louvin
We have spent the past two days on a greyhound bus from St. Louis to Portland, OR. After a day in Portland tuning up the bikes, resting and restocking we will be back on the road tomorrow cycling south down the coast. Regular posts will resume as soon as we have recovered from the spirit crushing 48 hours on the bus.
Monday, June 16, 2008
The Mighty Mississippi
To be read in the style of Charles Kuralt.
The advance squad had its first glimpse of the Mississippi River from a bicycle at 11:50 am CDT, June 6, 2008 west of Murphysboro, IL on Illinois Rt. 3. We went 811.4 miles; 81 hours, 3 minutes, 7 seconds of riding time; 15 days, 4 hours and 20 minutes total time.
Steaming hard out of Carbondale this morning we were both excited to reach her muddy banks and healing waters. But lo, she would not give up the ghost that easily as we had one last crucible of punishing hills to tease out every ache and pain we have been harboring before she revealed her big, broad bosom to us. Finally speeding down out of the high bluffs we saw her: flat, wide and muddy, just as we had imagined. With Missouri to our west, we raced barges and freight trains north headed for St. Louis.
Le Renard was happy to be entering the Louisiana Purchase and the land of his french ancestors. As we pass towns like Ste. Genevieve and I switch him into a high gear to climb yet another bluff, he now whispers softly 'Mondieu Monsieur!'
And so as Phase One of the journey comes to a close it is a time of celebration and reflection. Our riverboat legs have pushed and pedaled us out of the crowded east. Tonight we camp on the river bank at Prairie de Rocher with but a short victory ride into St. Louis ahead, like the final stage of Le Tour, the outcome never in doubt. We have two fine Cuban puros smuggled in by our commissary man, and maybe a pull or two of good corn whiskey to accompany our cold beef stew.
And so it is that two men with little training or preparation, be they so determined, can reach the mighty Mississippi using nothing but a bicycle.
Manu Forti and God Bless America.
The advance squad had its first glimpse of the Mississippi River from a bicycle at 11:50 am CDT, June 6, 2008 west of Murphysboro, IL on Illinois Rt. 3. We went 811.4 miles; 81 hours, 3 minutes, 7 seconds of riding time; 15 days, 4 hours and 20 minutes total time.
Steaming hard out of Carbondale this morning we were both excited to reach her muddy banks and healing waters. But lo, she would not give up the ghost that easily as we had one last crucible of punishing hills to tease out every ache and pain we have been harboring before she revealed her big, broad bosom to us. Finally speeding down out of the high bluffs we saw her: flat, wide and muddy, just as we had imagined. With Missouri to our west, we raced barges and freight trains north headed for St. Louis.
Le Renard was happy to be entering the Louisiana Purchase and the land of his french ancestors. As we pass towns like Ste. Genevieve and I switch him into a high gear to climb yet another bluff, he now whispers softly 'Mondieu Monsieur!'
And so as Phase One of the journey comes to a close it is a time of celebration and reflection. Our riverboat legs have pushed and pedaled us out of the crowded east. Tonight we camp on the river bank at Prairie de Rocher with but a short victory ride into St. Louis ahead, like the final stage of Le Tour, the outcome never in doubt. We have two fine Cuban puros smuggled in by our commissary man, and maybe a pull or two of good corn whiskey to accompany our cold beef stew.
And so it is that two men with little training or preparation, be they so determined, can reach the mighty Mississippi using nothing but a bicycle.
Manu Forti and God Bless America.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Photos
bathroom at the Cadillac Inn
we didnt see even one bbq restaurant there
at hogdaddy's, old shawneetown
tarp on bed at Cadillac Inn
Illinois Central
We have finally left Kentucky for the wilds of Southern Illinois crossing the Shawneetown Bridge over the ohio river about 5pm cdt yesterday. We did a solid 75 miles yesterday from Owensboro, KY to Shawneetown. Thunderstorms the previous day forced us to stay in Owensboro and rent a room at the Cadillac Inn. Both of us put down tarps on top of the bed and slept in our sleeping bags. Cody wouldnt even take a shower there.
Today we rode about 60 miles to Carbondale, Il. In the process both of us were hit by a truck mirror that had swerved onto the shoulder. Luckily, both of our backs broke his mirror so we hope it is quite expensive to fix as he didnt even stop to see if we were ok. Photos of bruises forthcoming. Land is flat and boring, but the lads are starting to get good at drafting.
Phase one of the trip is rapidly coming to a close. By Tuesday we should be in St. Louis. The advanced planning team has made drastic changes to our route in our search for constant misery, discomfort and pain. Upon entering St. Louis, the squad will board a greyhound bus for 2 days headed straight to Portland, OR. From there we will turn our faithful steeds southward and head down the pacific coast to LA. Now that we have made it out of the mountains, we find it only appropriate to skip the flatlands and go straight to the coastal headlands.
Today we rode about 60 miles to Carbondale, Il. In the process both of us were hit by a truck mirror that had swerved onto the shoulder. Luckily, both of our backs broke his mirror so we hope it is quite expensive to fix as he didnt even stop to see if we were ok. Photos of bruises forthcoming. Land is flat and boring, but the lads are starting to get good at drafting.
Phase one of the trip is rapidly coming to a close. By Tuesday we should be in St. Louis. The advanced planning team has made drastic changes to our route in our search for constant misery, discomfort and pain. Upon entering St. Louis, the squad will board a greyhound bus for 2 days headed straight to Portland, OR. From there we will turn our faithful steeds southward and head down the pacific coast to LA. Now that we have made it out of the mountains, we find it only appropriate to skip the flatlands and go straight to the coastal headlands.
Friday, June 13, 2008
photos
ohio river, indiana on the other side
last nights sleeping arrangement
protein
abe lincoln's boyhood home
cicadas are everywhere
Wabash Cannonball
We have made it to the banks of the Ohio River in Owensboro, KY. The Mighty Mississippi lies just 2 days hard ride from here. We are headed straight for St. Louis.
Day 11 - Elizabethtown, KY - Whitesville, KY -75 miles
Another long day of riding, which thankfully was easier then the other long days of riding. After leaving the Maker's Mark Distillery we returned to a series of dry counties, news that was received by the squad like a left hook to the ribs. The journey saw Cody get his doggie wings as he recorded his first victory in the great cross country dog battle. Riding point, a bogey screamed down from the right, followed closely by another from the left like the famed Zulu pincer attack. I was busy shouting out their coordinates to Cody as he quickly reached for his armaments (water bottle). A few direct squirts to the face and the beasts retreated from whence they came. The next mile was a joyous one as we recounted the battle.
Sometimes we come upon dogs that are already in the road as we pedal up. We usually spot them from a few hundred yards. With Ennio Morricone music sounding all around us, we tense up and drop down into a low gear. Cody nervously fingers his pepper spray, I ready the water cannons. Take a deep breath, tighten up the column and charge like mad men straight through their lines. We usually win most head on battles, but are vulnerable to silent attacks from our flanks.
Last night we finally reached another wet county and celebrated at the Black Cat in Whiteville, KY. I got cornered by two leathery fellows talking about logging, trucks and paper mills: a conversation to which I had little to add. Cody was busy getting cornered by more locals at the bar. Before long I found myself playing a game of pool against a bar regular. If I won, she would let us stay at her house, if I lost, we were on our own. A few lucky shots later and I had won lodging for the squad. At this point her boyfriend walked in wearing a dixie flag hat and cut off camo shirt. She told him 'I told these boys they could sleep in our front lawn", to which he responded "I doubt it." "What about down by the creek (crick)?" she asked, "I doubt it" he replied. We took this as our cue, and hightailed it out of the Black Cat and camped behind a shed in the city park.
Day 11 - Elizabethtown, KY - Whitesville, KY -75 miles
Another long day of riding, which thankfully was easier then the other long days of riding. After leaving the Maker's Mark Distillery we returned to a series of dry counties, news that was received by the squad like a left hook to the ribs. The journey saw Cody get his doggie wings as he recorded his first victory in the great cross country dog battle. Riding point, a bogey screamed down from the right, followed closely by another from the left like the famed Zulu pincer attack. I was busy shouting out their coordinates to Cody as he quickly reached for his armaments (water bottle). A few direct squirts to the face and the beasts retreated from whence they came. The next mile was a joyous one as we recounted the battle.
Sometimes we come upon dogs that are already in the road as we pedal up. We usually spot them from a few hundred yards. With Ennio Morricone music sounding all around us, we tense up and drop down into a low gear. Cody nervously fingers his pepper spray, I ready the water cannons. Take a deep breath, tighten up the column and charge like mad men straight through their lines. We usually win most head on battles, but are vulnerable to silent attacks from our flanks.
Last night we finally reached another wet county and celebrated at the Black Cat in Whiteville, KY. I got cornered by two leathery fellows talking about logging, trucks and paper mills: a conversation to which I had little to add. Cody was busy getting cornered by more locals at the bar. Before long I found myself playing a game of pool against a bar regular. If I won, she would let us stay at her house, if I lost, we were on our own. A few lucky shots later and I had won lodging for the squad. At this point her boyfriend walked in wearing a dixie flag hat and cut off camo shirt. She told him 'I told these boys they could sleep in our front lawn", to which he responded "I doubt it." "What about down by the creek (crick)?" she asked, "I doubt it" he replied. We took this as our cue, and hightailed it out of the Black Cat and camped behind a shed in the city park.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Photos
my old kentucky home
Le Renard sees his first wheat field
Not sure how many wheat fields cody has seen
dawn at the Springfield little league complex
Wilderness Road
Day 9
Berea, KY - Danville - Springfield, KY - 65 miles
Relatively easy day which included a stop at a bike store in Danville and then finally reaching a county that serves alcohol. Spent night in another little league ballfield dugout. Luckily this time there were no games in progress so we slept well. We have been travelling on the Wilderness Road since the Cumberland Gap, one of the original routes to the west.
Day 10 -Springfield - Loretto - Makers Mark Distillery - New Haven (in progress)
Morning tour of the Makers Mark Distillery as we continue to revel in our escape from the prohibition counties. We officially celebrated our triumph over the Appalachians yesterday. Land starting to look a lot like the midwest, as the mountains have flattened out into hills. The deep dark hollers, attendant hillbillies and the banjo tune from Deliverance that was our soundtrack has shifted to rolling hills, quaint towns, brass bands, hay, corn and nice people willing to help.
Monday, June 9, 2008
I sent a courier to webb 5 days ago.
Day 7 - Our first major mechanical breakdown. Berea, KY. 20 miles give or take.
yesterday clocked in around 75 miles.
A series of flats, busted tires and broken pumps led to a long night last night that finally ended about midnight in an Econo Lodge off I-75 in Mount Vernon, KY. The fact that all the counties around here are dry meant we had no tonic with which to pickle our frustrated spirits. This morning saw us split up for the first time with me riding hard through the Kentucky midlands hellbent to reach the Wal-Mart in Berea. Cody stayed behind walking his bike, stuffing grass in the tube to keep it off the rim and eating Campbell's chunky soup (which we have about every night.) I returned from Wallmart with a new tire, tube and pump. We finally made it to Berea in time to watch a little Euro 08 at a Mexican Restaurant and visit the library.
The rest of tonight will be consumed by the daily Operation Find a Sleeping Place. Tomorrow west to the bike store in Danville and then onward to points unknown.
yesterday clocked in around 75 miles.
A series of flats, busted tires and broken pumps led to a long night last night that finally ended about midnight in an Econo Lodge off I-75 in Mount Vernon, KY. The fact that all the counties around here are dry meant we had no tonic with which to pickle our frustrated spirits. This morning saw us split up for the first time with me riding hard through the Kentucky midlands hellbent to reach the Wal-Mart in Berea. Cody stayed behind walking his bike, stuffing grass in the tube to keep it off the rim and eating Campbell's chunky soup (which we have about every night.) I returned from Wallmart with a new tire, tube and pump. We finally made it to Berea in time to watch a little Euro 08 at a Mexican Restaurant and visit the library.
The rest of tonight will be consumed by the daily Operation Find a Sleeping Place. Tomorrow west to the bike store in Danville and then onward to points unknown.
a mornings work
busted flat
photos you can see
waiting for them to turn off the lights so we can sleep in the dugout. rogersville, tn
original kfc in corbin ky
pineville rain forest campsite
legs getting torn up
dr. ralph stanley and the clinch mountain boys
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Face north and turnabout left
Day 6 - in progress. So far approx 50 miles, Pineville, KY - Corbin - London, KY.
Hoping to make it to Berea tonight; currently escaping the heat in the London Library. Slept last night in Pine Mountain State Park. We started the night under a picnic shelter, but then got worried about visits from critters on account of all the trash cans around so we moved to another shelter further into the park. Awoke to a thick fog and heavy humidity which made everything damp. The hills seem to have leveled out considerably and we are making good time.
"And daddy won't you take me back to Muhlenberg County. Down by the Green River where Paradise lay. Well, I'm sorry my son, but you're too late in asking. Mister Peabody's coal train has hauled it away" - John Prine (though I sing the Dwight Yoakam version)
Hoping to make it to Berea tonight; currently escaping the heat in the London Library. Slept last night in Pine Mountain State Park. We started the night under a picnic shelter, but then got worried about visits from critters on account of all the trash cans around so we moved to another shelter further into the park. Awoke to a thick fog and heavy humidity which made everything damp. The hills seem to have leveled out considerably and we are making good time.
"And daddy won't you take me back to Muhlenberg County. Down by the Green River where Paradise lay. Well, I'm sorry my son, but you're too late in asking. Mister Peabody's coal train has hauled it away" - John Prine (though I sing the Dwight Yoakam version)
Singing at full throat, belly full of sweet tea and fried chicken, water bottles full of ice water, pumping my legs as fast as they will go racing a coal train from Corbin to London, not knowing or caring where we will sleep tonight. Those are the good times. Then you hit a hill, get a face full of diesel exhaust and remember its 97 degrees out.
Natty Bumppo
Rumble strips are not our friends, though they add a nice vibrato to my upper range, which is nice. I've taken to calling rumble strips Natty Bumppos in honor of my bike.
Poke Sallet
Harlan, KY hosted the annual Poke Sallet Festival last night. I dont really know what that is. I have an uncle who says 'That's good poke salad" whenever you hit a good shot off the tee on the golf course. Now Im wondering if he was saying 'That's good poke sallet' all this time. Regardless, that is what I will say from now on.
Saturday, June 7, 2008
West to Kentucky
Day 5 - Rogersville, TN - Middlesboro, KY (by way of Jonesville, VA) - 85 miles.
Spent Thursday night in the dugout of the little league baseball park in Rogersville, TN. We asked permission to sleep in the city park from the local sheriff. When we arrived at the park we found a number of little league games in progress and a carnival happening on the other side of the park. We both at hotdogs and watched peewee baseball until dark. Unfortunately the carnival went until midnight, about 3 hours past our normal bedtimes. Lots of teenagers were roaming the park all night, hence we bunked down sleeping lengthwise in the covered dugout. The mountain south seems to have a lot of teenage angst.
The morning saw us take a number of wrong turns leaving Rogersville adding 6 unnecessary miles. We also had the first flat tire of the trip. Due to our superior preparation skills, neither of us had ever changed a bike tire. Luckily we were able to figure it out and were on our way. Before lunch we climbed both Clinch Mountain and Powell Mountain, encountering our first switchbacks. Legs are rounding into shape as we dominated both mountains (exhausting ourselves in the process for the rest of the day.) Lunch in Jonesville, VA was the lowpoint of the day (trip?) as we still had 36 hot miles to go. Everyone assured us it was all downhill, of course everyone was wrong.
Yesterday also marked our first dog attack. As I was riding along after Clinch Mountain enjoying the scenery, Cody, ever the faithful wingman called out 'Dog!', right as I was about to run over a dog who had come to challenge me. I yelled and swerved to the left, only to have another bogey (dog) come hard on my heels to the left, barking and growling. Following our trusty battle protocols, I reached for the water bottle and pedaled as fast as I could. I tried to squirt the dog with a closed water bottle, which of course was unsuccessful. At this point I had two hellhounds on my tail just as Cody noticed another big black hound steaming down the hill towards us. I am pedalling, yelling and squirting gatorade everywhere; Cody for the most part seems to be laughing. Pedalling at full speed I finally manage to soak both dogs in gatorade and outrun them to the top of the hill. Cody outruns the third dog and we are in the clear. Learning from our first sortie, later in the day a little southwest Virginia yipper had the gaul to test us. Both of us gave him direct squirts to the face and he whimpered away in shame.
In total we biked 85 miles yesterday in 95 degree heat, making it to Middlesboro at 8 pm. Perhaps our hardest day of riding yet. We got our first hotel room of the trip last night, and today is our first day off. From here we will head north to Berea, KY to meet up with the Transamerica trail.
Photos as soon as i can navigate the Middlesboro Library computer system.
Spent Thursday night in the dugout of the little league baseball park in Rogersville, TN. We asked permission to sleep in the city park from the local sheriff. When we arrived at the park we found a number of little league games in progress and a carnival happening on the other side of the park. We both at hotdogs and watched peewee baseball until dark. Unfortunately the carnival went until midnight, about 3 hours past our normal bedtimes. Lots of teenagers were roaming the park all night, hence we bunked down sleeping lengthwise in the covered dugout. The mountain south seems to have a lot of teenage angst.
The morning saw us take a number of wrong turns leaving Rogersville adding 6 unnecessary miles. We also had the first flat tire of the trip. Due to our superior preparation skills, neither of us had ever changed a bike tire. Luckily we were able to figure it out and were on our way. Before lunch we climbed both Clinch Mountain and Powell Mountain, encountering our first switchbacks. Legs are rounding into shape as we dominated both mountains (exhausting ourselves in the process for the rest of the day.) Lunch in Jonesville, VA was the lowpoint of the day (trip?) as we still had 36 hot miles to go. Everyone assured us it was all downhill, of course everyone was wrong.
Yesterday also marked our first dog attack. As I was riding along after Clinch Mountain enjoying the scenery, Cody, ever the faithful wingman called out 'Dog!', right as I was about to run over a dog who had come to challenge me. I yelled and swerved to the left, only to have another bogey (dog) come hard on my heels to the left, barking and growling. Following our trusty battle protocols, I reached for the water bottle and pedaled as fast as I could. I tried to squirt the dog with a closed water bottle, which of course was unsuccessful. At this point I had two hellhounds on my tail just as Cody noticed another big black hound steaming down the hill towards us. I am pedalling, yelling and squirting gatorade everywhere; Cody for the most part seems to be laughing. Pedalling at full speed I finally manage to soak both dogs in gatorade and outrun them to the top of the hill. Cody outruns the third dog and we are in the clear. Learning from our first sortie, later in the day a little southwest Virginia yipper had the gaul to test us. Both of us gave him direct squirts to the face and he whimpered away in shame.
In total we biked 85 miles yesterday in 95 degree heat, making it to Middlesboro at 8 pm. Perhaps our hardest day of riding yet. We got our first hotel room of the trip last night, and today is our first day off. From here we will head north to Berea, KY to meet up with the Transamerica trail.
Photos as soon as i can navigate the Middlesboro Library computer system.
Cicada Slap
This is when an airborne cicada hits you in the face or helmet while you are riding downhill at full speed.
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Appalachia
Day 1 - Winston-Salem to Wilkesboro, NC. 58 miles. Camped for free at the Wilkes County Waste Water Treatment Facility. Within sight of treatment tanks, but as long as the wind didnt change it was great. Bathrooms and showers were available as they rent out campsites for Merlefest and let people stay there throughout the year.
Day 2 - Wilkesboro to Boone, NC. 55 miles, straight uphill. Extremely difficult. The day started easily through winding roads. After a few hours we hit a huge hill. After about 10 minutes of pedaling straight uphill Cody got off his bike and walked. I pressed on for another 10 minutes as hard as I could thinking I would wait for Cody at the top. The top never came and I eventually got off the bike only to find Cody about 10 yards behind me. After that we had a system where if we ever dipped below 4 mph on the bike computer, then we got off and walked. Hours later, after eating all of the power bars in sight, one can of beef stew and even a 2 mile lift from a sympathetic truck driver, we made it to the top of the hill we named 'Soulcrusher'. Still had 30 miles on the Blue Ridge Parkway to Boone. Totally exhausted and broken walking around Boone trying to figure out a place to sleep, through blind luck we met a guy who had just done a bike tour last year. After a few phone calls he helped us find a vacant apartment that was unlocked which meant carpeted floors and a shower. Knowing about cycle touring, his first question was 'where are you going', his second was 'do you need a place to stay?' The answer to both was 'we dont know.'
Day 3 - Boone to Johnson City, TN 52 miles. Easy day spent winding around Watauga Lake before meeting a friend in Johnson City. BBQ chicken, cold beer and vegetables. Shower again and and hearty discussion about best routes northwest.
Day 4 - Johnson City to Rogersville, TN - 62 miles (92 degree heat). Currently sitting in the Rogersville Library. Except for the heat the ride wasnt too bad. Took a detour to visit the birthplace of Davy Crockett, a childhood hero of mine as portrayed by Fess Parker. The birthplace turned out to be only a replica cabin and the detour helped to completely break our rhythm and made for a painful ride into Greeneville, TN where we ate bagels and cheese in the aisles of Food Lion. We also had our first cup of ice thrown at us.
Tomorrow we head northwest through the Cumberland Gap to meet up with the Transamerica Trail at either Berea, KY or Mammoth Cave, KY.
Photos uploaded as soon as I can figure out how to do it on the public library computer. Also a special bonus video of a descent. Top speed so far is 38 mph. Turkeys, deer, goats, cows, horses, chickens and beavers have all been spotted alive. Many more animals seen as roadkill, including a surprising number of snakes. Off to find a suitable camping spot.
Day 2 - Wilkesboro to Boone, NC. 55 miles, straight uphill. Extremely difficult. The day started easily through winding roads. After a few hours we hit a huge hill. After about 10 minutes of pedaling straight uphill Cody got off his bike and walked. I pressed on for another 10 minutes as hard as I could thinking I would wait for Cody at the top. The top never came and I eventually got off the bike only to find Cody about 10 yards behind me. After that we had a system where if we ever dipped below 4 mph on the bike computer, then we got off and walked. Hours later, after eating all of the power bars in sight, one can of beef stew and even a 2 mile lift from a sympathetic truck driver, we made it to the top of the hill we named 'Soulcrusher'. Still had 30 miles on the Blue Ridge Parkway to Boone. Totally exhausted and broken walking around Boone trying to figure out a place to sleep, through blind luck we met a guy who had just done a bike tour last year. After a few phone calls he helped us find a vacant apartment that was unlocked which meant carpeted floors and a shower. Knowing about cycle touring, his first question was 'where are you going', his second was 'do you need a place to stay?' The answer to both was 'we dont know.'
Day 3 - Boone to Johnson City, TN 52 miles. Easy day spent winding around Watauga Lake before meeting a friend in Johnson City. BBQ chicken, cold beer and vegetables. Shower again and and hearty discussion about best routes northwest.
Day 4 - Johnson City to Rogersville, TN - 62 miles (92 degree heat). Currently sitting in the Rogersville Library. Except for the heat the ride wasnt too bad. Took a detour to visit the birthplace of Davy Crockett, a childhood hero of mine as portrayed by Fess Parker. The birthplace turned out to be only a replica cabin and the detour helped to completely break our rhythm and made for a painful ride into Greeneville, TN where we ate bagels and cheese in the aisles of Food Lion. We also had our first cup of ice thrown at us.
Tomorrow we head northwest through the Cumberland Gap to meet up with the Transamerica Trail at either Berea, KY or Mammoth Cave, KY.
Photos uploaded as soon as I can figure out how to do it on the public library computer. Also a special bonus video of a descent. Top speed so far is 38 mph. Turkeys, deer, goats, cows, horses, chickens and beavers have all been spotted alive. Many more animals seen as roadkill, including a surprising number of snakes. Off to find a suitable camping spot.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Departure
We are leaving first thing tomorrow morning (June 2). Between the two of us, we have a collective 4 training rides under our belts. As such we only plan to make it to Wilkesboro, NC tomorrow night via NC 67 (leaving from Winston-Salem). Then up the mountain to Boone for Tuesday night, and across into Johnson City, TN on Wednesday. From there we will either head north to Kentucky or west to Nashville.
Panniers are weighing in at approx 35lbs fully loaded with food. Menu for tomorrow is bacon and eggs at home at 6am, granola, trail mix and power gel on the road, dinty moore beef stew can for dinner camped somewhere along the Yadkin River. I am not taking a laptop so will post as often as I find a computer.
Also, for anyone who wishes to make a contribution in honor of this ride, please visit nomoredeaths.org. The organization always needs socks, adult clothing appropriate for the desert, gas cards, food pack supplies (posted on website), camping gear, and vehicles. Of course money is always appreciated. Be sure and list that the donation is in honor of Patrick Hammond's cross country ride.
Panniers are weighing in at approx 35lbs fully loaded with food. Menu for tomorrow is bacon and eggs at home at 6am, granola, trail mix and power gel on the road, dinty moore beef stew can for dinner camped somewhere along the Yadkin River. I am not taking a laptop so will post as often as I find a computer.
Also, for anyone who wishes to make a contribution in honor of this ride, please visit nomoredeaths.org. The organization always needs socks, adult clothing appropriate for the desert, gas cards, food pack supplies (posted on website), camping gear, and vehicles. Of course money is always appreciated. Be sure and list that the donation is in honor of Patrick Hammond's cross country ride.
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